As real New York seltzer goes down, its crisp bubbles stir up rich nostalgia

For third-generation seltzer bottler Kenny Gomberg, the charm of authentic bottled seltzer is both the throat-biting tingle a pressurised glass bottle creates, and the memories it stirs up. Since his grandfather opened the seltzer factory in 1953, the seltzer delivery business has dropped off significantly due to grocery shelves stocked with big-brand fizzy water in plastic bottles. Indeed, Gomberg’s small operation is the only seltzer factory left in New York City. Still, he’s able to carve out a living serving up his crisp beverage – and some nostalgia – to elderly customers, and to a younger generation that prizes all things artisanal.